Anyone who has had to deal with the cultivation of strawberries or strawberries knows very well that these plants multiply by the formation of new small plants on creeping shoots. It is to them that the beardless strawberry belongs, or, as experts say, the alpine remontant strawberry.
In terms of its characteristics, the plant is in many ways superior to its relatives:
- fruiting occurs from mid-June to the onset of autumn frosts
- berries in taste and aroma are not inferior to wild strawberries
- the size of the berries is large
- the number of berries from a bush can reach 1000 pieces
The fact that a mustache-less strawberry is not capable of sprouting and forming new rosettes is undoubtedly a positive quality. This greatly simplifies the maintenance of the beds, and also contributes to a more stable harvest.
There is only one way to propagate mustardless strawberries - by growing new plants from seeds. This is not to say that this activity is too difficult, but it will require certain knowledge.
- First, you need to properly prepare the soil, loose and nutritious, clearing it of coarse fractions.
- Seeds should be sown in a small box with soil, the distance between the seeds should be at least 1 cm. The box should be covered with a glass frame or foil to ensure a constant level of soil moisture.
- You do not need to bury the seeds in the ground, they should germinate in the light.
- The grown crops are hardened, constantly accustoming them to room temperature and drier air.
The recommended time for sowing seeds is spring-early summer. Planting seeds earlier will require additional lighting of the plants with fluorescent lamps. Depending on the quality of the seeds, mustacheless strawberries can sprout in two to three weeks.
Due to the particularization of strawberry plants, division of the mother bush is also possible. In the third or fourth year of life, old rhizomes naturally die off in the bushes, the rosettes disintegrate into separate particles (parts). Particulation is a simple and natural way to propagate remontant mustacheless varieties.
For some reason, some gardeners in the fall radically cut off strawberry bushes. Perhaps this is due to the desire to protect plants from fungal diseases. But after all, nature is so laid down that a perennial plant so protects itself from frost, preserves snow for itself, and feeds itself. In the wild, gradually dying leaves form a layer of mulch.
Therefore, if you have a desire to prune dead leaves, then do it in the spring. But instead of the strawberry you need to add a layer of organic mulch. Since the mustacheless varieties are not aggressive, lawn grass mulch, as well as pine mulch, are perfect for prepared beds.
In addition to organic mulch, a film coating will help fight weeds. The British, Americans and Europeans grow it this way. Their berries never touch the ground.
And it used to be like this with us, and why they refused it is not clear. It is best to take roofing material and roll it out over the prepared bed. Press the edges tightly with boards. Walking on the covered garden is strictly prohibited. Try to walk only on planks during both planting and operation.
For planting strawberries, small cross-shaped cuts are made (preferably only with a knife, not torn). Then young plants are crammed into them quite tightly. With growth, these cuts-crosses themselves will expand to meet the needs of the bush.
Two or three rows are made on the bed with a row spacing of 30 cm, the planting density in a row is 20-25 cm. The beds covered with mulch do without watering the whole season. And you can feed your pet with microelements. Strawberries also respond well to the following top dressing: a drop of iodine, a thin potassium permanganate, a pinch of copper and iron sulfate on a bucket of water. You can water directly over the foliage from a watering can with a splitter.
Since the roots of strawberries do not go deep into the depths, the protection from the mulch saves moisture, preserves the looseness of the soil, and also protects the berries from rot. It is estimated that with such a simple agricultural technique, they get a third increase in yield, and even more in rainy times.
Re-laying the beds is done after four years. It is excellent if the crop rotation is observed and you plant remontant strawberries after legumes. So less pests will accumulate in the soil, such as nematodes. If this is not possible, remove the covering material and apply a generous layer of mature organic matter (8-10 cm). Then spread a layer of new roofing material, since the old one will no longer have the necessary tightness.
Today on sale you can find different varieties of beardless strawberries and strawberries, the technology of their cultivation is almost the same, and the timing and activity of fruiting are determined by the varieties.