Gardeners and gardeners, even with very little experience in home farming, have heard that it is impossible to grow the same crop on the same beds for years. After all, the soil tends to "get tired" of a certain group of plants, it can accumulate any pests and diseases characteristic of a particular fruit crop. Therefore, you should take a responsible approach to the issue of crop rotation in your summer cottage, because all gardeners want to get healthy plants and rich harvests.
- About changing cultures
- About soil and mulch
- About satellites
- On a note
It is known that there is a regularity of the alternation of growing different plants in the same place so that the soil does not get tired. Today we'll talk about how to plant cucumbers after that to get a good harvest.
About changing cultures
Almost all crops can be grown in one place for about 3-4 years, then a group of plants should be replaced with another. For cucumbers, early cabbage or cauliflower are ideal precursors. Cucumbers show good fruiting rates when planted on former places of growth of potatoes, peas, beets and tomatoes.
Although the disputes around the neighborhood of tomatoes and cucumbers among gardeners have been going on for more than one year: some express the opinion that this is an ideal combination of crops, others speak of their complete incompatibility. This dilemma will have to be resolved by each summer resident on his own experience.
Most likely, crops do not conflict at the allelopathic level (they do not affect development with their root and leaf secretions), they only need a different watering regime - cucumbers are more moisture-loving than tomatoes.
About soil and mulch
Cucumbers can grow in "hot beds" for 3-4 years without changing their place. To do this, a trench is dug with a depth of 70 cm. Branches, shavings, rough waste are poured into it. Then the removed soil layer is returned. The bed is knocked out from all sides with a curb with a height of 15 to 40 cm. The curb can be wooden, as well as brick, where holes are necessarily provided for the drain of excess moisture.
From above, the earth is densely covered with mature compost (depending on the height of the curb) with a layer of 15 cm and above. It is better to plant cucumber seedlings directly in peat cups so as not to disturb the root system. Cucumber plantings are compacted by sowing dill and legumes. Here cowpeas, beans, peas, bush and curly beans will be good. We will dwell on the benefits of compacted landings a little lower.
During the flowering period, it is better to stop watering for about a week, but this is possible only if there is a sufficiently high layer of mulch - more than 5 cm. By the evening, the leaves of the cucumbers will hang like a spaniel's ears, but the soil will not dry out, since the mulch will retain moisture, and there will be more ovaries.
In addition to retaining moisture with straw and grass mulch, another interesting way to mitigate the effects of sunlight on cucumbers is to install a trellis with a hut. So the bushes will leave leaves outside and put the fruits in the shade, away from the sun. Mulch and slanting trellis are great tricks to prevent sun bitterness.
During the fruiting period, be sure to feed the cucumbers, otherwise you will lose a significant part of the crop. Herbal tinctures and "garden teas" from cow and chicken manure are essential! You can read about mineral dressings for cucumbers here.
It is also worth paying attention to the crops adjacent to cucumbers, which will increase the yield of both. Excellent companions for cucumbers: legumes (especially different types of beans), celery, dill, a variety of salads, onions, garlic, fennel, spinach. An excellent symbiosis can be observed in cucumbers and corn.
It is believed that dill prolongs the fruiting of cucumbers. Garlic protects them from bacteriosis. The root secretions of lettuce and spinach stimulate the development of cucumber roots and perfectly protect the soil from overheating. As for legumes, let us remind you that nitrogen accumulates in them, so do not dig up their roots after harvest, just cut them off. The radish will protect the cucumbers from spider mites. And corn perfectly protects plantings from winds.
On a note
Many summer residents often think that there are "acid" rains in June, and that is why the cucumber plantings burn out. It is noticed that foliage does not burn under any shelter. I hasten to suggest that in the rains cucumbers suffer from the rapid development of the parasitic fungus peronospore.
Therefore, it would be good to make awnings over cucumber plantings, or plant seedlings in three terms. So you outwit such an unpleasant attack.
It was noticed that more ovaries appear on the shoots of the third order. Therefore, in order to increase the number of female flowers, the bushes are formed by pinching, they achieve a branch from the lateral branches of the stem.
Now knowing what to plant cucumbers after, I hope you will correctly distribute vegetables and berries in your garden! Indeed, in general, cucumbers are a peace-loving culture, they grow after many vegetables, except for their pumpkin relatives, and they also "do not mind" many of their neighbors.