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Pepper "Morozko" and its cultivation


Sweet bell peppers are a popular vegetable crop, delicious fresh and canned, changing the taste of almost any dish for the better. To grow bell peppers and get a good harvest, you need to know some of the subtleties of the process.

Content:

  • Pepper "Morozko" and other varieties
  • Growing seedlings
  • Pepper care

Pepper "Morozko" and other varieties

Bell peppers come in many varieties, which can be categorized as early, medium and late. In addition, they differ in color, shape and wall thickness. So, pepper "Morozko" is a medium early variety, it reaches technical ripeness in 115 days, and full (when its color turns red) - in 125 days. The technical ripeness of all varieties suggests a green color; at this time, the peppers are recommended to be removed and placed in special boxes for ripening.

If the fruits are left on the bush until biological ripeness, then the total yield will be less, since the strength of the plant will be spent on ripening the fruits, and not on the formation of new ones. In this variety, the fruits are cone-shaped and directed horizontally. The weight of one fruit is about 100 g, the wall thickness is up to 0.7 cm. The yield in the open field is 1-2 kg / m2, in the closed field, of course, it will be higher.

Pepper "Morozko" is resistant to diseases, fruitful, has an excellent taste (at least that's what the seed says on the package), why not buy it? Of course, it is worth buying it if you live in Western Siberia, but if in Ukraine, I would not recommend it. The variety intended for the West Siberian region will hardly please the residents of regions and countries with a completely different climate with a high yield; it is better to choose a variety that is zoned in the area of ​​residence.

Growing seedlings

If you are going to get a good harvest of pepper, you need to know some of its features. Pepper seeds, especially large-fruited, sprout poorly and slowly. It is better to pre-soak them in "Epin", "Zircon" or other growth stimulant. When they swell slightly, or better - hatch, they are planted in the ground or peat tablets, lightly sprinkled with earth. It is important to take into account another feature of the plant: it has an extremely negative attitude towards any transplants, it gets sick for a long time after them, and gives a small harvest. Therefore, if the seeds are planted in the ground, then immediately in a large container in which the seedlings will live until they are planted in open ground or a greenhouse. At the same time, it is important not to deeply deepen the seeds, but only lightly sprinkle them with earth, so that it is easier for them to break through. For the first time, each container must be turned into a mini-greenhouse, covered with polyethylene or glass.

When planting in peat tablets, proceed as follows: put the tablets with the open side up in a container, pour a little water and wait 15 minutes until they absorb it and turn into small barrels. The remaining water is discarded. Next, the seeds are laid out one at a time in the center of each barrel and sprinkled with soil a little. Further, the container is also turned into a greenhouse, covered with a transparent lid or glass. Peppers sprout for a long time, sometimes up to 2 weeks. All this time, the greenhouses need to be ventilated and humidified. After the seedlings appear, the greenhouse is eliminated, and when they have a couple of real leaves each, the peat barrels are carefully freed from the net and, together with peat, without damaging the roots, are planted in a large container.

Pepper care

On a site, in open ground or a greenhouse, seedlings are planted only after the threat of recurrent frosts has passed. The distance between plants is about 40 cm, between the rows - about 50, they need a sufficient feeding area. It is better to do this in cloudy weather or in the evening, deepening the bushes to the cotyledonous leaves. It is imperative to add humus to the holes, otherwise you will not get a good harvest. At first, the plants are shaded from an overly active sun, then the shelters are removed. Further care consists in watering, weeding, loosening and feeding with mineral fertilizers. The first time the plants are fertilized with superphosphate and urea a couple of weeks after planting. When the first ovaries appear, the plant will need potassium sulfate and superphosphate if there is too little phosphorus in the soil. When the fruits are ripe, the plant is usually fed with wood ash, which is a potash fertilizer.

Peppers are not watered often, but abundantly, 2-3 times a week will be enough. The trunks of plants are gradually lignified, so it is believed that they do not need a garter. However, some bushes of especially productive varieties break from the weight of their own fruits, in this case they are tied up like tomatoes. The crop has good keeping quality and the ability to ripen to biological ripeness, already removed.


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