Cambria is a fairly widespread orchid on the market and, given its adaptability, it can be recommended for newbies in this type of cultivation. The conditions present in the apartments are in fact almost always suitable for its growth and with some minimal precautions we will also be lucky enough to see it flourish often.
This genus of orchids does not exist in nature, but comes from the hybridization between some species, such as Oncidium, Odontoglossum and Miltonia. For this reason they exist Cambria with the most varied blooms, with small, medium and large flowers, brindled or of a single color, yellow, red, rosé and white.
They produce elongated pseudobulbs, quite thick, from which branch some ribbon-like leaves, not very long; in spring and summer between the leaves develops a thin erect stem, up to 30-40 cm long, which carries numerous buds, which bloom in succession. After flowering under the stem a new pseudobulb develops.
Easy to grow plants, they are easy to find in nurseries. After flowering it is possible to sever the stem bearing the flowers, below which a swollen, well rigid pseudobulb will develop; when the pseudobulbs are well developed, we place the plants in a cool place, avoiding watering too often, for at least 8-10 weeks, in this way we will favor the production of a new stem and the new flowering the following year.


they are grown in a bright place, but away from sunlight, which could cause noticeable burns to the leaves. The optimal temperature during the vegetative period, from March to September, is around 18-20 ° C; during the cold months it is advisable to place the plants in a cooler place, with temperatures between 10 and 15 ° C.
The ideal exposure for a fast and harmonious growth must be extremely bright, avoiding however the direct sun (especially in the central hours of the day or in the summer months). The advice is, at home, to place it near a window to the south or west, to be possibly shielded with a light colored curtain in moments of maximum brightness.
During the summer it is possible to move the pot outside, under a patio or in the shade from a deciduous tree.


From March to September water regularly, every week, if possible by immersion, or by immersing the vases in water for a few minutes, then placing them in a dry place; during this period we will fertilize the plants every 25-30 days, with specific fertilizer for orchids. During the cold months we water about once a month, or even less if the plants are kept in place with temperatures below 10 ° C.
During the vegetative period the substratum must always be slightly damp: usually it is necessary to intervene once every 7-10 days, monitoring that the roots do not become too silvery. In winter it can be enough even once every 20 days.
It can be irrigated from above, even if the immersion method is often safer (then allowing it to drain well).
The environmental humidity is crucial for the health of the plant, especially when temperatures increase. Frequent vaporizations are excellent, but we can also use electric humidifiers or place the jar on a container filled with expanded clay and water (avoiding that this comes into contact with the roots).
For all uses it is essential to use rainwater or demineralised water.

Soil and substrate

these are epiphytic species, which like soft and very well-ventilated soils; generally a substrate consisting of barks, pieces of coconut fiber or osmunda, sphagnum peat is used. Very large plants may need repotting, we will intervene after flowering.
Being an epiphyte it requires a practically inert substrate. Generally, a mixture of bark (well washed and sterilized pine bark, left to soak for a long time) is used, sphagnum peat and perlite. However, we can also opt for polystyrene or other inert material. An excellent choice is also the creation of a "raft" by tying the roots to the wood and waiting for them to get tangled (as they would in nature).


: it happens by division of the tufts, every single pseudobulb, provided with a vigorous root, will be divided from the tuft and repotted individually.

Pests and diseases

fear mites and cochineal; conditions of poor ventilation, low environmental humidity, or excessive humidity of the ground bread, can cause the leaves to dry out, and also the rot of the roots and pseudobulbs.


The Cambria do not require a particular climate: they find a perfect location in a moderately heated apartment. During the growing season, from March to November, it is good, to stimulate growth, to maintain temperatures constantly between 20 and 25 ° C. A colder environment will cause it to become dormant (it is nevertheless recommended never to go below 8 ° C). Excessive heat can cause dehydration, especially if the ambient humidity is low.

Repotting of Cambria

Repotting generally takes place every two years, so as not to excessively disturb the root system. It usually proceeds in spring when the new jets emitted by the plant measure a few cm.
We wet the substrate very well and wait for the roots to be soft before extracting everything, so as to minimize damage. We carefully examine and eliminate all parts that are dead or with signs of rot. We always use sharp and disinfected scissors. Finally we dust with suitable products (propamocarb, fosetil-al). Alternatively (especially if there were no serious problems) we can also opt for a teaspoon of powdered cinnamon.
We avoid to irrigate for at least 10 days, possibly we help the plant with frequent leaf vaporisations.

Orchid vase cambria

It is always good to prefer vases that are not too large and transparent because they will allow you to monitor the state of the roots and avoid water stagnation. The same container can be reused, but after careful disinfection. Let's make sure that there are many holes for water drainage and aeration.

Family, genus, species Orchidaceae, hybrid, x Cambria
Type of plant Epiphytic orchid
Origin Commercial hybrid
Foliage persistent
Use Indoor plant
Height at maturity 40-50 cm
Growth rate 40-50 cm
Maintenance average
Water needs Medium-high
Minimum temperature 8-10 ° C
Ideal temperature in the vegetative period 20-25 ° C
Ideal temperature in the vegetative rest 16 ° C
Exposure Very bright, no direct sun
Ground Bark, sphagnum peat, agriperite; inert materials
Fertilizer Balanced, every 20 days
soil pH acid
Soil moisture fresh
Environmental humidity high
Propagation Pseudobulbs division

repotting End of winter (end of winter)
Flowering April-May (but it is also possible in other months)
Vegetative rest November to February
Division End of winter (at the vegetative restart)

Fertilization of Cambria

Cambria want specific fertilizers for orchids: NPK 20-20-20 are recommended. They should be administered every 20 days, wetting the substrate well first (to avoid burns).

Cambria: How to make Cambria flourish again

The greatest difficulty in these plants consists in obtaining new blooms, year after year (even if the Cambria are spontaneously very floriferous). The secret lies in reproducing the climate in which their ancestors lived: simulating a light winter season and inducing vegetative rest.
In practice, starting from November-December we move the vase in a little heated room (from 12 to 16 ° C) and poorly lit, regulating the irrigation accordingly. In February-March, let's bring it back to normal conditions: a stem should be produced from the pseudobulbs produced during the previous summer.
In the apartment the cycle can be forced at any time, monitoring temperatures and brightness.