These plants need average minimum temperatures not less than 10-12 ° C, so in Europe they are grown in apartment; for the anthurium we choose a well bright position, but far from the direct solar rays, which could ruin the foliage. The waterings will be regular, but not excessive; we always try to water only when the soil is dry, but we avoid leaving it without water for prolonged periods of time. Every 12-15 days let's add to the irrigating water some fertilizer for flowering plants, all year long, since the anthurium has no period of vegetative rest.The anthurium fears temperature fluctuations and blows of air, so we avoid placing it too close to a window or heat sources. Periodically it is advisable to remove the withered flowers but also the ruined foliage.The yellowing leaves are generally a symptom of problems in cultivation: if the leaf turns completely yellow it is water problems, the roots do not reach the oxygen or the mineral substances contained in the soil, this can happen due to a constantly soaked soil. 'water.On the other hand, the foliage turns yellow from the ends or from the edge it can be a lack of watering or over-fertilization.Summer temperature 18-20°Winter temperature 13 °. Never go below 10 °Exposure No direct light. Shadow-shade.Substrate Very porous and draining. Subacido.Irrigation Constant, without stagnationEnvironmental humidity Always keep highComposting Every ten daysrepotting Every three years, in MarchMultiplication Division of the head, leaf or stem cuttingAnthurium flower
In nature they live in the rain forests, in the shade of large trees, sheltered in the branches; those that are commonly called flowers are actually large inflorescences, similar to those of the calla lilies, consisting of a leaf modified in a heart-shaped bract, called spata, large, shiny and slightly leathery, wrapped around a spadix, a cylinder on which the small white or yellowish flowers. The whole gives rise to a very showy inflorescence; each plant can produce more inflorescences, throughout the year. Even when the Anthurium is not in bloom it is still a beautiful plant, with large heart-shaped leaves, light green in color, which give rise to a roundish bush, about 35-45 cm in diameter.
To always have a well-developed and luxuriant anthurium every year, or at least every two years, let's remember to repot our plant; place it in a container slightly larger than the previous one, but add fresh, rich and soft soil; prepare a good soil for the anthurium by mixing some universal soil with at least a quarter of lapillus, pozzolana or pumice stone, in order to make the substrate well permeable. Recall that in nature the Anthuriums do not root in the ground, they are epiphytic plants, like many orchids, and therefore their roots are immersed in the vegetable remains that nest in the hollows between the branches of large trees; therefore we can also use universal soil and half soil for orchids for the anhurium, made up of vegetable fibers and bark bits. When we place our plant in the ground we remember to bury it up to the collar, avoiding to bury it excessively, which would favor the development of fungal diseases.To have always shiny and beautiful inflorescences and foliage we remind to periodically clean them from the dust, which easily settles on these leaves so big; we avoid the use of foliar spray polishes, and we use a simple cloth, perhaps in microfibre, slightly damp.In nature, anthuriums live in rainforests, where the climate is perpetually hot and humid; especially during the summer and during the winter (when the heating system of the house is active) the home climate is very dry, therefore we remind you to increase the environmental humidity frequently vaporizing the canopy of the anthurium with demineralized water.temperatures
As we have said, these are plants that originally live between the Tropics and the Equator and in particular are part of the rainforest vegetation. They are therefore particularly sensitive to cold. They should definitely not be exposed to temperatures below 13 °, while the ideal is to keep them around 16-18. Higher temperatures, from May to September, are generally not a problem. The important thing is, however, that the right exposure and environmental humidity are maintained. During the summer, they can easily be kept outdoors. However, they should be withdrawn as soon as autumn arrives and therefore when there begins to be a good temperature range between night and day. In fact they are very sensitive to currents and temperature changes.
From October to April it is good to keep a temperature that is not too high (around 13 °): in fact, they need a resting phase whose absence could compromise flowering in the coming year.
In their natural habitat they live at the bottom of the forest where little light arrives, filtered by the leaves of the trees. Keeping this tendency in mind we must find our plant as close as possible to the natural one. In interior it is good to place it in a room that is also bright, but where there is no direct light. The ideal is to screen the windows with light colored curtains.
During the summer, if we keep the plant outside, place it in the shelter of a tree or a pergola.
From March to September the substrate must remain constantly humid and therefore the irrigations must be constant. It is only necessary to pay particular attention to avoiding any kind of stagnation that could cause root rot (the roots are particularly fleshy and unfortunately subject to these phenomena). In winter they must be a little thinner but not to the point of allowing the soil to dry completely. An essential point for health alone is the need to maintain very high environmental humidity. This can be achieved in different ways. First of all we can place the container on a saucer filled with expanded clay and water. This floor plan will evaporate while maintaining the right environment for the plant. We only need to take the utmost care to ensure that the plant's roots do not come into contact with water, always to avoid rot. In addition to this we can intervene by steaming the leaves several times a day with water. For this purpose it would be better to avoid tap water, which is often too calcareous and could leave residues (especially on varieties with velvety leaves). It is better to use demineralized water such as the one for sale (for irons), rainwater or derived from the condensation of the air conditioners.
The mixture must be subacid and very porous. The ideal is to mix peat and earth with leaves, combining a material capable of maintaining humidity such as chopped sphagnum and a draining material such as sand or agriperite. To avoid the risk of stagnation it is important that the vessel is filled at least 1/3 with drainage material (gravel, expanded clay, shards). Always make sure that the drain holes are not blocked.
Repotting, if the growth is regular, is usually done every three years, at the end of winter. It is important that the new container is slightly larger than the previous one. On the surface we can place some shredded moss (possibly sphagnum). This will hold water and release it slowly, naturally increasing the moisture around the anthurium.
From spring to autumn, fertilizations must be carried out regularly, every 10 days. The ideal is a liquid product for flowering plants to be administered with irrigation water. If you want, you can add a minimum amount to the water for vaporisations, to be spread both on the leaves and on the aerial roots.
The anthurium can be attacked by insects, cryptogams and rots. The most common insects are aphids. If the aggression is small, it can be done by removing the insects manually and eventually cleaning the leaves with a detergent. If instead it is severe it is better to use a specific insecticide. Infestations caused by the cottony cochineal, which usually lurks on the stems, may also appear. If there are few specimens, they can be removed with alcohol swabs. Otherwise it is good to intervene with an insecticide, perhaps with systemic action.
If we keep the plant outside it may be necessary to defend it from snails and snails with special baits. Due to the frequent nebulisations it can happen, especially in the varieties with velvety leaves, to see the appearance of patches connectable to various cryptogams. In that case it is better to suspend the practice for some time and distribute a broad spectrum fungicide. Of course the most common problem is root or collar rot. Unfortunately once it appears it is very difficult, if not impossible, to be eradicated. It is therefore very important to regulate irrigation, create a good drainage layer and use a specially composed soil.
Several ways can be followed to reproduce the anthurium. The simplest way is certainly the division of the head. It should be done at the end of winter in conjunction with repotting. We need to divide the roots into several portions, making sure that each has at least one bud. They must then be placed in pots with a substratum similar to that of the mother plant.
Another possible method is the cutting. You can try with every part of the plant, in particular with a portion of leaf or with a segment of stem. In the first case it is good to engrave in correspondence with the veins and to place the fragment on a very light, porous and moist compound. The ideal is a mixture of chopped sphagnum, peat and agri-perlite. It must always be kept moist and at a temperature of about 25 °. The same substrate can be used with the stem fragment which should be dusted with a rooting plant based on plant hormones. It must then be inserted deep into the compound. Seed multiplication by us is poorly practiced mainly because there are no environmental conditions for pollination, in particular specific insects. On the other hand, the seeds maintain germination for a very short time and, consequently, when they arrive in Europe they are often inactive.
As we have said, the genus includes more than 500 species, although not all of them have horticultural interest. It is true, however, that breeders have long been interested in this plant and have consequently imported many varieties, committing themselves to creating new, more colorful and resistant cultivars.
It is the most widespread species and is most easily found in large distribution. It grows spontaneously in Colombia and usually does not exceed 50 cm in height. The leaves are heart-shaped, they are shiny dark green, very large and decorative. From spring to autumn it produces leathery and waxy spates. The color was originally deep red, but over time have been created cultivars characterized by new colors of the inflorescences: white, pink, fuchsia. Even the spatice has found new colors, often in contrast, like yellow.
It is a plant from Colombia. Very interesting and decorative especially for the huge leaves (which can reach 40 cm in length). They are a beautiful dark green with deep contrasting silver veins. When they sprout they tend to red as well as the back, another interesting aspect. The leaves are not shiny, but velvety. We need to avoid spraying because over time they tend to stain and are often attacked by cryptogam. In any case, the plant needs very high environmental humidity. It will be necessary to find different solutions if necessary by providing an electric room humidifier, similar to what is done with tropical orchids.
It is rather small, as it usually does not reach half a meter in height. It is perhaps the easiest species to cultivate indoors because it tolerates also the lack of humidity. It has dark green lance-shaped leaves. The inflorescences are heart-shaped, white, pink, red or even yellow. Spatice is particularly valuable because it is curved.
Anthurium veitchii (also called "king"):
Always a native of Central America. It is a spectacular plant for the beauty of its leaves, almost a meter long and of a beautiful almost glaucous green, leathery and shiny, crossed by ribs in the form of horizontal waves. It can reach a height of one meter and produces pretty pleasant yellow inflorescences.
Anthurium as a sign of love and friendship
The meaning and meaning of Anturio connects this beautiful flower to the highest sentiments, as are love and friendship. So giving a beautiful bouquet or a single anthurium flower to a loved one, or as a gift on the occasion of a special occasion, therefore means expressing a strong, sincere and pure feeling in a simple and direct way.
Even for easy maintenance and good resistance to various temperatures, the plant is a gift of a certain liking.
Particularly suitable also as a Christmas gift, thanks to its bright and lively ruby color, which more and more associates it as a valid substitute for more traditionally famous plants as can be the widespread Christmas star or the classic fir
Anthurium yellow leaves
Although we have already talked about the adversities that can affect the Anthurium plant in this section we will do the reverse process or we will start from the problem to try to understand the disease. Very often, in fact, plant enthusiasts write to us very concerned about the fate of their anthurium plant that is starting to have yellowed leaves. The causes of leaf yellowing in anthurium plants can be different and we will now see what they can be.
In the first place, yellowing of the leaves may be due to a lack of adequate irrigation of the plant. The anthurium is in fact a plant that needs to have constant watering because, being a tropical plant, it needs a soil and a humid cultivation environment. We therefore take care to water this plant constantly trying to ensure it always moist soil. Wet soil does not mean soggy soil and therefore we always pay attention not to overdo the amount of water.
Other possible causes of foliar yellowing can also be poor lighting or a position of the plant too subject to drafts and drafts. In fact, as far as lighting is concerned, the anhurium suffers positions that are too poor in light but also suffer exposure to direct light. It is therefore necessary to choose a semi-shade position for this plant, such as a window or a well-lit veranda. As far as air currents are concerned, it is very important to avoid positions subject to excessive drafts because the anthurium is a plant that suffers from the air, especially the cold one.
Many plant and flower enthusiasts write to us to know the name of the red anthurium and generally what is commonly called red anthurium It is the anhurium andraeanum. This plant is a very widespread ornamental plant in houses and apartments and is often used in church for religious decorations. After all it has a long and particularly decorative flowering, a rather contained size and beautiful glossy green leaves.
The contrast that is also created between the red flower and the white spatice is something very pleasant. This plant survives particularly well in the apartment because it does not need large amounts of light, indeed. Being a plant of the tropical substratum, the red anthurium lives well with little diffused light, therefore near a window but with something that shields the direct light.
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